I wanted to sew a Tiramisu Dress since I first saw you all making them. I finally completed one – then I wanted to make changes, so I instantly made a second one with a lighter weight and stretch knit fabric.
I love a knit dress. I also like dresses with high waistbands. I have had my eye on making a striped knit Sewing Cake Tiramisu Dress since I first saw one. I made a Little Black Dress Red Velvet Dress in November of 2013. I looked for striped fabric for the Tiramisu since then. I made the grey & black one first, but wanted to make changes. I dug through my minimalist knit fabric stash & decided to try it with the blue & grey one.
The grey & black dress is a fairly substantial knit with great recovery. When I finished it, I realized it would be much too thick & hot for summer. I also found that I wanted to make a few alterations to my pattern. If you consider making a Sewing Cake pattern, know that when it says to go with a smaller size for negative ease, that it really means go down a size! I don’t like super fitted clothing, so my Red Velvet Cake dress was made with zero ease. I ended up taking 3 inches out of the top. This time I made a whole size smaller. I like the fit across the front, but the back is pretty snug. It works because it is very stretchy & has fantastic recovery. I wanted make it right away before I forgot what I needed.
Since I was stripe matching, (which includes shoulders), I wanted to keep the shoulder seams equal and the edges of the sleeves the same distance. I dropped the back of the neck down a tiny bit and took most of the underarm scoop out. I kept the length of the bodice the same too. I did a slight Pivot and Slide Method to start my pattern alterations, but evened them out by comparing it to the first back bodice. I was left with an inch added overall. So I made a note to add the same to the neck/front binding as well as the front & back midriff.
I had not attempted to match stripes for years. I noticed it made me slow down on the whole process. I opened up the fabric to cut a single layer. I made notations on my patterns where the stripes were. I was careful to not let my fabric hang over the edge of the table & stretch out.
I purchased both fabrics at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics in Berkley, CA. This light grey one was very lightweight & had almost no recovery. The pattern said T-shirt material was an acceptable choice, so I used this one for my second dress. I also wanted to make my second attempt at this dress pattern in a fabric that was totally different from the dark one. The dark fabric is VERY stretchy with great recovery. The blue one curled up the second I cut it!
I almost hate to point it out, but I was so careful in matching the stripes on the bias, I somehow lost my way in attaching the skirt to the midriff of the light one! D’oh! Oh well, maybe if I keep moving no one will notice. It is very light & cool, and will work great for summer.
I did sew the skirt to the midriff with the midriff on the top so I could see the stripes under the foot. When I cut out the second one (left) I did think about what I would like in the colors on the center of my waist. But be aware that you must also match stripes at your waist at the side. See below:
I am not sure if I am going to hem this or leave it cut. I was careful to stitch from bottom hem to top while joining the side seams so the bottom edge is crisp & perfect. Matching, matching, Matching!!
I used a soft rainbow variegated thread to serge all the inside seams. I buy two cones of variegated thread & use them in the upper & lower loopers to make this soft pretty inside secret. Thank you for all your inspirational Tiramisu dresses!